A Travellerspoint blog

Cuzco, the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu

Finger puppets and Inca ruins...

sunny 20 °C

Cuzco - by far the most touristy place I have ever visited! From the moment you arrive you are bombarded by finger puppet, postcard, sweater, massage, doll selling Peruvians on every plaza and street corner! It is a lovely city in all its cobbled street cuteness, but the constant harrassing can be a bit much!
Still, I was of course very excited to be there, as this was the jumping point to Machu Picchu, the BIG one for most people coming to South America.
I met some new amigos on the bus from Puno, Serena (English) and Guy (Israeli). We spent the next few days hanging out together in Cuzco. Serena was doing the Inca Trail and it was nice to be able to get caught up in her excitement as I wouldn't be doing it myself. The trail now gets booked up months in advance, and not knowing when I would be in Peru (after all, I was orignally supposed to be ending my trip around about now!), I didn't get a chance to book a trip, so was missing out.
We spent days wandering the colonial streets, checking out the nearby ruins on horseback, and eating good food, including the delicious alpaca (I couldn't be tempted to try Guinea Pig though!). Then Serena went off to do the trail and Guy and I headed off to the Sacred Valley on our way to Machu Picchu. This was the cheapest way to get there by the train and it was actually a really nice way to do it.
We first went to Pisac, which has some impressive ruins of it's own as well as large markets filled with every type of typical Peruvian souvenir imaginable (more finger puppets!!) Here we ate amazing empanadas cooked in a wood fire oven and still warm flat bread typical of the area. After Pisaq was Urubamba. Not a lot to do here, no ruins to speak of, but we had to come here to get a taxi to Ollantaytambo, where we would catch our train from. Ollantaytambo is a lovely little village - still touristy, but felt more genuine. They have some ruins of their own, but we arrived too late so we saw them on our way back. We ate dinner here and caught our train at 8pm to Aguas Calientes. This is the last village you can stay at before heading to Machu Picchu. As you can imagine, it is completely set up for tourists going to the site. There are so many restaurants, hostals and souvenir shops here, I can't imagine they all can be making a good living, despite the number of tourists that flood into this village.

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Cuzco
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Serena and I
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Sacsayhuaman - ruins close to Cusco
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Photos for our mums!
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Pisac ruins
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Flute player at the ruins in Pisac
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Rio Urubamba
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Urubamba
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Ruins at Ollantaytambo

Machu Picchu
There have been many pinch myself moments on this trip. But my biggest pinch myself moment so far was when I was lying on my hostal bed after just coming back from seeing Machu Picchu. I couldn't believe that I had actually seen the lost city of the Incas. I have wanted to see them for as long as I can remember (something to do with a cartoon I used to watch as a child about the Incas, I think!) and they didn't disappoint.
We got up early to catch the bus to the site and arrived just before 6am. The ruins were covered in misty clouds when we first arrived so we waited, seated on one of the terraces, for them to lift. It was quite a magical moment. There weren't too many people, (the day trippers wouldn't arrive by train for a couple of hours yet) it was relatively quiet and the sun was just rising over the mountains as the clouds began to lift, revealing the ruins in all their glory. It was one of those catch your breath, jaw dropping moments.
We spent the next couple of hours exploring the ruins and then climbed the mountain of Huayna Picchu, a one hour scramble up steep paths and even steeper steps (coming down was worse) for an unforgettable and spectacular view of Machu Picchu. The ruins of Waynapicchu are on top of the mountain and how on earth they managed to get the stones up there to build them, let alone create the steps that lead to it, is beyond me!
I was totally in awe of Machu Picchu. Seeing all the ruins leading up to this and then actual Machu Picchu itself, I couldn't help but be in wonder at how and why they built these cities. Built on top of seemingly impossible moutains, it must have taken years and huge amount of manpower. And to think, after all of this, the Inca empire only lasted around 100 years.

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see that mountain in the back, well I climbed it to get these...
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proof!!
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the path up the mountain
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Posted by zedgee 11:25 Archived in Peru Comments (1)

Lake Titicaca

Goodbye Bolivia, Hello Peru

sunny 20 °C

Lake Titicaca is one of the world's highest navigable lakes and is over 9000 sq meters in size, on the border of Bolivia and Peru. This was my last stop in beautiful Bolivia and where I would cross over into Peru.
Jumping off point on the Bolivian side, is the lovely town of Copacabana. Although it's a little touristy, it still manages to keep its small town charm. From here I took a day trip to the Isle Del Sol. This island is the birthplace of the sun in Inca mythology. The island has some little villages and inca ruins that can be visited by taking a boat from Copa and then doing a 3 hour walk from one end of the island to the other. The island is beautiful, with white sandy beached coves and blue waters, reminiscent of somewhere hot and tropical, rather than a lake some 3820m high!
The next day, I was off to Puno, Peru. The border crossing was very uneventful and Puno turned out to be no where near as nice as Copacabana. The main reason to stop on this side of the lake is to visit the famous Islas Flotants (floating islands) of the Uros People. Puno has built an entire industry out of visiting these islands as well as a couple of the other ones. I did a one day tour to the floating islands and another island, Taquile, famous for its Quecha-speaking islanders with a rich traditon of weaving. I was disappointed to discover the lake covered in a thick layer of green algae that according to our guide is a consequence of pollution. There was none of this on the Bolivian side. The algae cleared after a while, as we headed to the floating islands. These islands have that feeling of being there totally for tourism. The islanders are dressed in brightly coloured costumes, which seemed rather fake after the guide told us that tradionally the islanders used to be almost totally naked but started dressing this way after they became a tourist attraction! Still, it was an interesting and unique way of life! The islands are made out of the buoyeant reeds that grow in the lake, placed horizontal and then vertically on top of each other till they about two metres deep. After a quick boat ride on one of the reed boats, we headed of to the Isle Taquile. This island is also very touristy, but felt a little less set up than the Islas Flotantes. Here, they still dress in traditional costume (although I did wonder if they get back into adidas tracksuits after the day trippers depart!! ) and the men wear tightly woven hats that they take great pride in knitting themselves. Depending on which hat they wear and which way they wear it, you can tell if a man is single, married, looking or not looking! Similarily with the womens shawls. We had a lovely lunch here overlooking the lake and it felt more like I was somewhere in the Mediterrenean than Peru!
Puno was my first introduction to Peru and I have to say, after Bolivia, it was a bit of a shock. I was met by countless "agents" at the bus stop wanting to take me to hotels and book me a tour. I found out on the day of the tour that I payed much more than others! I had to get used to being ripped off again! In Bolivia, the tourism industry is such that sometimes you feel like they couldn't care less if you were there or not - kinda resfreshing! You barely feel like you are ever being ripped off and if you are, it's such a small amount that you really don't care. Boliva is by far my favourite country that I have travelled through in South America. I spent 8 amazing weeks there, through such varied and beautiful country, encountering many different experiences, not to mention the quirky Bolivians themselves, and loved every minute of it!

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View from my hotel in Copa, which was about all of $2!!

Isle Del Sol
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Floating Islands
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Kids on Taquile Island

Posted by zedgee 10:51 Comments (0)

Salar De Uyuni

0 °C

Most of the time, I love travelling on my own. Purely for selfish reasons, I don´t like to compromise on what I want to do. There are, however, a few times when having some buddies along would be handy. Booking a trip in the Salar De Uyuni would be one of those times. (I´ve also occasionally thought that travelling with a boyfriend/porter could be handy, mostly when my backpack is getting really heavy due to overzealous shopping in markets) By all accounts, it´s pot luck if you get on a good tour with a reasonable guide and a 4x4 that doesn´t break down, run out of fuel, or worse case scenario, end up on it´s side because of a crazy/drunk/asleep driver! The best you can hope for is to get a good bunch of travellers on your tour. I had hoped to meet some amigos either on the way to Uyuni or once there, but I was the only gringo on my bus and I arrived in Uyuni in the middle of the night, which is not conducive to meeting people! I ended up booking with one of the bigger agencies, Colque Tours, because I´d heard they were pretty consistant, not amazing, but no horror stories either.
So, you can imagine my delight when I opened the door to the 4x4 and saw a familiar face. It took me a couple of seconds to work out where I knew the face from. It was a Alice,a girl from the Parque I had been volunteering at! She left the day after I had arrived, so obvisouly we didn´t know each other well, but it instantly put me at ease. We of course spent most of the trip talking about the Parque (probably to the annoyance of everyone else on the tour) and catching up on the gossip!
As for the tour itself. It was pretty good. I had a great group, we were all from different countries - English, Italian, Brazilian, Canadian, Dutch and Australian (me). Our guide, Pedro, was a nice, older Bolivian. He wasn´t what you would call terribly informative, but he only spoke Spanish so this wasn´t a big deal for me!
As for the scenery, it was amazing and incredibly diverse. Out of this world blinding salt flats as far as they eye can see, a cactus island in the middle. Lakes of different colours, some that looked like tiny oceans, the wind causing small waves to crash upon their shores. Beautiful mountains and volcanoes that look to have been painted against the blue skies. Geyser basins, where mud gurgles and sulpherous steam rise up from the ground. Desert terrain with tiny little villages that makes you wonder why anyone would live there! Llamas, flamingoes and vizcachas (long tailed rodents) pepper the stark surroundings.
Being at some 3653m above sea level, the air is out of breath thin and crisp. I have never been so cold in my life. Our second night we slept in pretty basic accomodations, the beds were made of stone! I had on every piece of clothing I had with me (including my thermals), three blankets, my sleeping bag and liner and I was still freezing. I had bought a handful of alpaca goodies in the markets in Uyuni before the tour, but even they were of no help against that bitter cold night.

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Salar de Uyuni

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Isla de Los Pescadores
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It had to be done!

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Stone tree

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Dali-esque mountains

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The group, second night at dinner, very cold!

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The geysers. Our third morning. Still very cold!
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Lago Blanco
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Posted by zedgee 12:29 Archived in Bolivia Comments (0)

Sama

sunny 35 °C

I´d been to Chile, Argentina and Brazil before I fell in love for the first time on my South Amercian journey (not counting my fling with Buenos Aires, of course!) And who would have thought it would be with a Bolivian. His name is Sama and we had a one month, passionate affair. Sama is very complex. He´s a little smaller than average which seems to have given him a good dose of small man syndrome. Despite his size, he is very handsome, proud and has an amazing prescence. He can be moody, indifferent and sometimes downright agressive. But he can also be playful, sweet and incredibly cute. Although rarely affectionate, you live for the moments when he is.
Sama is a 9 year old, 80kg jaguar and he was all mine for one whole month whilst I was volunteering at Parque Ambue Ari in the Bolivian Amazon basin. Like all the animals at Ambue Ari, Samas story is incredibly sad. Sama´s mother was shot when he was just one month old (poachers often kill the mother of cubs they are trying to steal) and sold to a family in La Paz. It was whilst the family were trying to sell Sama to a circus that he was rescued by police and handed over to Communidad Inti Wara Yassi. He was only 6 months old and the original plan had been to release him. Because of this, Sama had little contact with humans in his first few years, suffered underfeeding and was kept for months on end in a transfer cage of only 1mtr x 1.5 mtrs. Sama waited for 3 years in these conditions for governement officials to decide whether he would be released. It was decided that Sama would not be released due to a lack of suitable land to release him on and he had also developed arthritis. This explains a lot of his behavioural problems that he has today - like how he is possesive of his food, isn´t comfortable around lots of people, particuarly men, and paces back and forth in small places. Sama can not be walked like the other jaguars in the park or played with in his cage (although he has had both in the past from previous long term volunteers), his nature is too unpredictable and he has attacked 3 volunteers in the past. His life is constricted to living in an enclosure and if he lives to the average age of a jaguar, he has another 10 years or so to live in this ´prison´.
My first few days with Sama were a little unsettling. Whilst getting used to a new person, Sama can be aggressive, stalking and pouncing at you. I had to stand my ground, make him see that I wasn´t scared of him and although he is behind a cage, this is not an easy thing to do! Liora (his previous carer who was passing Sama over to me) told me to wipe my scent on a banana leaf and give it to Sama over my first few days. First he just smelt the leaf, with his nose and with his mouth (jaguars have smelling glands in the back of their mouths and open their jaws up wide to smell, it´s a little scary to see at first) It was a little discencerning to then watch him rip the leaf to shreds...pretty sure this is what he would have done to me if I had been inside his cage! Liora told me after a few days he would stop doing this and ignore the leaf. In fact, when he started ignoring me altogether it was to be taken as a compliment as it meant that he was used to me and had accepted me.
My first few days with Sama were a little traumatic for the poor fellow. He needed a new door in his cage. His enclosure consisted of two cages, one big and one small. Sama was currently being locked into his smaller cage at night because the current door was not in the best shape and we were worried he might be able to escape. To do this he had to be put on a runner whilst the guys came to install it. To put him on a runner, Liora used an egg, whilst he is eating it she put his lead on - he is so engrossed in his egg you could practically perform surgery on him! All the noise and the men upset Sama terribly and he hissed and jumped on his runner and I was able to see the full force of his aggressivness. It was pretty scary and it upset me to see him so upset. The next few days he had to be kept in his small cage whilst waiting for the concrete to dry. He paced up and down and looked so eager to be out in his bigger cage that I was suprised that when I finally let him in, he just calmly sauntered out and plonked himself down in the middle! I had been expecting leaps of joy! He spent the rest of day spraying and marking his territory, especially where the boys had been. I spent the day running out of it´s way!
Over the coming weeks, Sama and I developed a routine. In the mornings I would usually find him lying on top of his bed box in the sun. I would sit by him and play him music from my i-pod, Snow Patrol are his favourite! Luckily for me Sama seems to like to take his mornings easy, just like me. He likes to sit in the sun, clean himself and roll around a bit, being very cute!
After lunch, I would head back to Sama and collect treats for him along the way - long grass. Sama would always be waiting for me in the corner of the cage, ok, so probably more for than the grass than me, but I liked to think a little of it was for me! Feeding him the grass was probably the favourite part of my day with Sama. It was just him and me time and towards the end I was giving it to him in the mornings also, he seems to really enjoy it and so did I!
If at all playful, it was usually in the afternoons. We liked to race each other at the end of his cage, both of us trying to trick the other one. That was my favourite game to play with him. Sama becomes very bored very easily though, probably from being locked up all the time, so the games usually didn´t last too long before he would go off to find a shady spot to lay in for a while. He would usually sit somewhere near me and I would read him my book or practice my spanish on him or sing to him.
Being in the jungle alone all day with a moody jaguar can be a little scary at first. Although it only took a couple of days to get used to Sama, it took more time to get used to being in the jungle all by myself. Lizards can be suprisingly loud when they want to! I only had the occasional visit from the snake that lived in Samas cage and the monkeys that came through to keep me company. But I really came to like that time by myself and to appreciate the jungle, it´s a really beautiful environment.
My feelings for Sama were growing every day but I think I first realised I was in love with him was when I realised he was in love with me too! It was when Roberto, a volunteer who had been at the park previously, came to spend the morning with me and Sama that it first became apparent. Sama was not happy that Roberto was there at all. Whenever Roberto came anywhere near me, Sama would pounce and snarl at him. Sama was possessive of me, he though of me as his. You have no idea how good this made me feel. After weeks of thinking he didn´t give a toss whether I was there or not, it was now apparent that he had developed feelings for me too. Over the next couple of weeks together, our relationship grew and I even became comfortable enough to let Sama lick me though the cage and to give him a bit of a pet under his chin. It nearly broke my heart when it came time to train up the new volunteer, Maire, to take my place. I have to admit I was secretly delighted when at first he acted the same way with Marie as he had with Roberto. It took a few days to get used to having someone else there with me but it was nice to have the company and it meant that Marie and I could start up some projects that I couldn´t do on my own, like building Sama platforms and giving him a new plank for his pool. It didn´t take long for him to get used to Maire though and I found myself getting a little jealous! It was time to go. So after nearly five wonderful weeks together it was time for Sama and I to say our goodbyes. Even though I felt that I was leaving him in good hands with Marie, I was incredibly sad to be leaving him.
I remember seeing a girl on my first day at the parque coming back from saying goodbye to her cat in tears and thinking it was a little silly of her. How wrong I was. It broke my heart to leave Sama, he really is a very special cat. Some people at the park claim they couldn´t work with a caged cat, that they need the physical contact. They are so wrong, working with a caged cat can be very rewarding on more of an emotional level. Sama doesn´t give his affection to just anyone, so when you finally receive it, it´s the most wonderful feeling in the world.

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Feeding Sama grass
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Sama waiting for me in the afternoons

Posted by zedgee 17:16 Archived in Bolivia Comments (0)

Parque Ambue Ari

Jungle Living

sunny 35 °C

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Here is something I wrote whilst sitting on the jungle floor, the sun trickling through the canopy above, hanging with a jaguar called Sama...

...I´m entering my third day without showering and I haven´t changed my clothes in that time either. It´s been at least a week since I´ve washed my hair and god knows how long since I shaved. My clothes are covered in dirt, the same dirt that seems to have set up permanently under my fingernails. It´s been raining, and the following days are always cool and with only cold water available it seems easier to just not shower. Besides I feel somewhat cleaner after these three days than I do 15 minutes after showering in the heat, that´s about how long it takes for the sweat to begin trickling down my body again. One has a funny relationship with the rain when living in the jungle. When it´s raining, you wish it would stop, for even though you know it will only last a couple of days, it´s a couple of days where you and everything around you will be damp. After the rains, it´s the cool relief you´ve been waiting for and following are lovely, sunny, warm days without the humidity and the mosquitos washed away. After this, the heat, the humidity and the mosquitos grow everyday. You can feel the heat sitting upon your skin, showing itself in the droplets of sweat that cover your body. The build up is excruitiating. Every second thought is, "god, i wish it would rain"!!
My hands and ankles are covered in mosquito bites (although not nearly as bad as most) and I´m always on the look out for ticks and have stopped four in their attemt to burrow into my skin (I had three pulled from me in the end). My stomach is not handling the overload of carbohydrates and root vegetables - everyday it is rice, pasta, potatoes of some description, bread, supplemented with jam, dulce de leche, and oreos! Occasionally we get some sort of fried goodness and you wouldn´t believe how happy it makes us! I´ve been sleeping in a tent for the whole time after an unfortunate incident of a rat in my bed.
I am 16 days into my month long stay at Parque Ambue Ari. And I don´t think I can remember a time where I have felt so relaxed, useful, or happy. I spend my days amongst some of the most awesome people I have ever met, I get regular cuddles from a red howler monkey called Co-Co who also likes to lick my armpits and pull down my top to lick my chest (sounds gross, but you get used to it, he likes the salt!), I have overcome my fear of birds and fallen in love with parrot called Lorenzo and best of all I spend the majority of my day with Sama, a 9 year old jaguar who is in my care for the time I am here.
Parque Ambue Ari is run and owned by Communidad Inti Wara Yassi, a Bolivian non governmental organisation that runs animal refuges, two in Bolivia, the only of their kind in this country. I first heard about the organsiations other park, Parque Machia, from a girl I met in Chile. I had definitly wanted to fit some volunteering work in whilst I was in South America and the Parque sounded amazing. After looking at their website (www.intiwarayassi.org) I discovered they had another park, a newer one that needed more help with not only looking after the animals but in construction for building up the park.
Three months into my trip I found myself on a bus on the road from Santa Cruz to Trinidad, my destination Parque Ambue Ari, Km 348. I was petrified. I didn´t really know what to expect, I had learned from the website that the parque had only basic facilities and I was worried that my very limited spanish was going to be a problem. Frankly I was just suprised I had managed to get the right bus and even more suprised when I actually made it to the parque. As the bus pulled away, I was given my first view of the parque. It looked like some sort of headqaurters for Green Peace, at least, who ever did the signs for Green Peace seems to have done them for the parque also! I was greeted with a "hello", instantly putting me at ease, from an english lad called Andy. He looked like he had seen better days, dirty and wearing ripped clothing, long hair and beard. He lead me to the camp, a ramshackle collection of buildings, lovingly (if not a little sloppily) built, covered in paintings and slogans like "we put down roots here so goodness can grown". Hmm, I was more than a little worried that this place was going to be full of peace loving, group hugging hippies!
Andy handed me over to Frank, a 21yr old American guy in charge of newcomers, who took me into the comedor (dining room) to explain things to me and then showed me around. First stop was Co-Co, who immediately jumped onto me, arms around neck and mouth straight to the armpits! I didn´t think this was such a great move on his part after my 6 hour bus journey in the jungle heat with no air-conditioning! I had noticed a smell when I first entered the camp and as we moved around, the smell seemed to be everywhere, and I was hoping it was not coming from all the volunteers themselves! I later discovered the smell was coming from Panchita, the resident pig, lovingly called "Panchi" as she was chased away from anything she could possibly eat (I saw her wolf down concrete!), roll in (mostly sewrage) or destroy (her favourite was peoples tents - luckily not the one I was staying in, the only one still surviving).
Originally planning on only staying two weeks, I was talked out of this pretty quickly by any volunteer that I came across in those first moments in the camp. You had to stay at least a month to work with a cat and apparently this was something I should definitly want to do! I spent the next three days agonising over whether I had made the right decision. Would I be able to handle living in the jungle for this long - mosquitos, heat, bad food, only cold water, no electricity, and the big one, no alcohol allowed in the camp! I´d also seen plenty of "war wounds" - bites and scratches on the volunteers from their cats that had be more than a little worried. I was being passed around construction projects (not one my strongest skills) whilst waiting for Noemi, the resident cat matching Bolivian volunteer, to assign me a cat. Noemi apparently had a knack for matching up the volunteers with the animals. I wasn´t so sure when she assigned me Lorenzo, a blue and gold macaw, on my second day. I hate birds. Petrified of them. Lorenzo had his flight wings cut so short they would never grow back and Zhandro, the parque vet, had glued on another parrots wings. He needed to be fed away from the other birds who bullied him and also given daily flight practice. Luckily I was assigned him with another volunteer, Hannah, who was equally as petrified, we could give each other moral support when we were sure he was about to peck our eyes out!
Whilst waiting for a cat to be assigned to me, there were rumours that I would be working with a Puma, then an Oceleot and also with Sama, the jaguar. The third turned out to be the correct one. My fourth day in, Noemi assigned him to me and I started working with him the following day with his current carer, Liora. Sama is one of four jaguars at the parque, the only one that can be cared for by a girl because he isn´t walked (and he also prefers girls!). So I felt pretty lucky to have been assigned him.
It didn´t take long to settle into the routine of the parque. Each morning we are woken at 6:30 by the sound of the generator (the generator is used for the sole purpose of pumping water up to the park, there is no other power on the parque). By 7 we are hard at work preparing and feeding the animals that live around the camp. My morning job is always Lorenzo, whereas the other volunteers rotate on a weekly basis. After the feeding we do other morning jobs, like cleaning toilets (you always got this your first day in the camp) or preparing the comedor for breakfast. At 8, it´s breakfast time which is always bread, usually some fruit (I wasn´t much of a fan of papaya before, but can safely say I will never eat it again) and whatever else we have bought to brighten up the meal. By 9, we are on our way to our cats, water bottles in hand. We are back at camp around midday for a two hour lunch break. Lunch is the biggest meal of the day and usually the best. At two, we head back to our cats, this time meat bucket in hand. Working day finishes at 5, cold showers and then an early dinner around 6. Dinner is usually some sort of soup, not always the best, I´ve had a few nights of crackers and jam, it´s been so bad! After dinner, it´s tea or hot chocolate time, lots of cookies and usually a game or two of cards. Or we might be preparing for the mercado that we have been invited to attend, where we plan to have a stall to educate the locals about the parque. We´re lucky if we make it up to 9, then it´s time for bed, a long nights sleep needed for the early morning and long working day ahead. Some nights we head to Santa Maria, the closest town, a term I use loosly, more a collection of shacks, some which serve beer and pass for a pub. After a few beers we will be up on the dance floor, dancing to the only two 80´s music dvd´s they ever seem to play, whilst a group of Bolivian children stand on the outside and stare at us. Great nights but usually ending in frustration as we wait on the road all hours for the 11pm micro (bus) that never seems to arrive...

...That´s where I finished writing on that day 16. Of course there was much more to follow, like finally making it back into a bed only to have another rat keep me company another night, Panchi ransacking our room two nights in a row, Herbie the baby tapir who also liked to lick my chest, walking a puma called Wara, the mercado and the Bolvian children we hope we made an influence on, having fun machetting bamboo and banana trees in the jungle, Lorenzo proving he can actually fly by taking off and then crash landing after waiting for an enternity for him to come back after his little taste of freedom, two new cats arriving the park, Katie the jaguar and Tupac the blind puma, searching for a missing ocelot in the dark in the jungle, narrowily escaping drunken Bolivian mens attempts at kissing me, seeing a dead jaguar paraded around the nearest big town, Guarayos, meeting the very strange Menonites (Armish types) who have taken to slashing and burning the jungle for farming, playing football with the locals (ok, so more watching than playing on my part!) Mimi the pregnant coete and her lover Tromberto, setting off Faustino and Co-Co the house red howler monkeys...
Oh, and there were a few group hugs, but funnily, I didn´t seem to mind in the end.
There´s a seperate blog for Sama, cause he deserves it!
Photos can tell the rest...

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All the volunteers on my last day in the parque.

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Me and Co-Co

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Me and Herbie

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Bambi

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Faustina and Co-Co howling

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Me and Pana Pana

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Mimi and Tromberto

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Me and demon monkey

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Me and Wara

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Vanesso the ocelot

Me and Lorenzo
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Lorenzo and his one hand trick

Santa Maria Nights
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Tina, Hannah, Frank and Me
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The boys after playing the locals in a game of football

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In our stall at the mercado
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Painting animal tattoos
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With the kids at the mercado

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Me and Sama

Posted by zedgee 10:05 Archived in Bolivia Tagged volunteer Comments (1)

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